Why do i need HD (720p) or Full HD (1080p)?
Blu-Ray players, HDMI graphic cards, PS3, Xbox 360 Elite are all able to unleash their true potential (720p/1080p mode) only through the HDMI output. If you want a valid ticket to the Full HD world you either need a compatible display (with HDMI input) or an HDfury3 for your existing display. 1080p FULLHD as found on Blu-ray and HD has over 6 times the resolution as standard DVD and TV. For the best movie and and home theater experience, you *need* Blu-ray/HD.
Why do i need a HDCP compliant display?
HDMI is a new standard that comes with a form of hardware protection called HDCP. If your display doesn’t have a HDMI input you won’t be able to display 720p/1080p signal on it (from HDMI sources). Prior to exchanging video data, the HDMI source exchanges HDCP keys with HDMI display. Both devices have a special HDCP chip embedded. If your display doesn’t include an HDCP chip, even if it’s technically able to display 720p or 1080p signal, it will display a BLACK SCREEN. On some devices (ex: Playstation3, Xbox360) 1080p mode is only available through the HDMI output.
I use component cables to connect my Blu-Ray or DVD player to my display device and it works just fine! Why do I need HDfury3?
Blu-Ray and many DVD players can also upconvert standard definition DVDs to higher resolutions (720p, 1080i, 1080p), but they only do this via the HDMI outputs (not component). So if you want to get the higher resolution benefits of your player’s upconversion circuitry, you’re forced to use HDMI. As well, in the future it may not be possible to pass certain high definition content over component video cables. A content flag called the ICT (Image Constraint Token) allows broadcasters and movie studios to limit or “down-res” the HD video signal to standard definition 480P resolution over component video cables. Hollywood has reportedly agreeed to not activate this flag until 2012. And the most important reason to use HDfury3: The picture quality is substantially better! (Sharper/cleaner/less noise/less ringing/etc). Talk to someone who uses one or read the reviews !
My picture ‘blanks out’ from time to time when using the HDfury3. Why is this happening?
If the HDfury3 blue LED is OFF during the picture blanking, the problem is with the HDfury3 or the power supply. We will replace them for you.
If the HDfury3 blue LED is ON during the picture blanking, the problem is with the the component cable, RGB cable or the display.
Lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and make sure that DIP switch 6 is set to ON. DIP switch 6 is used to turn the blue LED on/off, make sure it is set to ON if you are experiencing problems with your HDfury3. The blue LED will never come on if you have DIP switch 6 set to off.
Do I need to use the sound output on the HDfury3?
Likely not. The audio output of the HDfury3 is a convenience feature if you do not have a home theater receiver. The HDFury3 supports stereo analog output as well as 5.1 Dolby/DTS digital SPDIF output. If all you have are the speakers in your TV you can use the 2-channel analog audio output of the HDfury3 as a covenient way to feed audio directly into your TV without having to run separate (possibly long) audio cables from the source to your TV as in many setups the HDfury3 will be plugged right into the TV. This way you only need to run one HDMI cable to the TV and then use a short audio cable from the HDfury3 to the TV sound input. Anyone with a home theater receiver/pre-amp and separate speakers should instead connect their source devices directly to the receiver/pre-amp and not use the HDfury3 sound output. You may use the 5.1 Dolby/DTS digital audio output of course if the positioning of your HDfury3 makes this more convenient. The choice is up to you! Typically there is no need to use the audio features of the HDfury3 with a home theater setup.
How do I hook up the audio from the HDfury3?
The HDFury3 has both analog and digital (TOSLINK) audio output in one connector located on the bottom of the unit labelled “D/A” along with a headphone symbol. It’s a 2-in-1 connector meaning that you can plug in either a 3.5mm stereo analog jack or a digital mini-TOLINK (3.5mm mini-jack) cable and get stereo analog sound or 5.1 Dolby/DTS digital sound out of the HDfury3. See further below for pictures of both types of connectors/cables.
HDfury3 3.5mm mini-TOSLINK digital audio cable:
If you’d like to use a “regular” TOSLINK cable, use a 3.5mm Mini-TOSLINK to regular TOSLINK adapter (not included):
A 3.5mm stereo audio cable (not included) is used for connecting the HDFury3 to a TV if you don’t have a home theater setup (you only have 2 speakers in your TV):
Inputs and switching:
How many inputs does the HDfury 3 have?
Two inputs, both HDMI 1.3 compliant with HDCP with support for Deep Color(TM). The HDfury3 is the first HDfury to support Deep Colour(TM).
How do I switch between the two inputs?
The switch on the side of the HDfury3 labelled “1A AUTO 2B” is used to switch inputs or to set the HDfury3 to switch automatically. To always use input 1A, set the switch to 1A. To always use input 2B, set the switch to 2B. To have the HDfury3 autoswitch, set the switch to AUTO.
How does the HDfury3 auto switching work?
The AUTO position will cause the HDfury3 to switch automatically to the source device with an active video signal. In the case of two active video signals whichever became active first will be chosen. The HDfury3 will then remain locked on that input until that source is turned off. In order words: If two sources are active and you wish to switch to the other, turn off the currently active one in order to switch to the other.
What resolutions does the HDfury3 support?
The HDfury3 supports any resolution/refresh rate combination (interlaced or progressive) up to 1080p/72Hz in RGB output mode, and 1080p/60 in component (YPbPr) output mode. 1080p/24 is also supported.
Does the HDfury3 change the resolution? Upconvert or downcovert?
The HDfury3 does not change the resolution or refresh rate in any way. It converts the HDMI 1.3 digital input signal to an analog RGBHV (VGA) or Component (Y/Pb/Pr) signal. It also provides HDCP decryption if needed. The HDfury3 outputs whatever resolution you feed it. Feed 1080p in and you’ll get 1080p out. Feed 480i in and you’ll get 480i out.
Does the HDFury3 support both Component and RGB video output? I thought they were the same?
The HDfury3 supports both component (Y/Pb/Pr or YUV) and RGBHV (sometimes called VGA) signal types on the output. They are not the same at all and cannot
be used interchangeably . Some displays have component inputs, some displays have RGB, some have both. The HDfury3 lets you choose between the two to best match your display’s requirements.
My picture is all green! What’s going on?
You likely have a display that only accepts RGB and you have the HDfury3 set to component output (Y/Pb/Pr). Switch it to RGB.
I want to use the component input on my display. How do I set the HDfury3 to output component (Y/Pb/Pr) video?
Lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and set DIP switch 1 to OFF. Make sure to use the HDfury3 component breakout cable to connect the HDfury3 to your display’s component (Y/Pb/Pr) input. It is the cable with 3 RCA (phono) style connectors coloured red, green, and blue
I want to use the RGB (VGA) input on my display. How do I set the HDfury3 to output RGB (VGA) video?
Lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and set DIP switch 1 to ON. Make sure to use one of HDfury3 RGB cables to connect the HDfury3 to your display’s RGB (VGA) input. Three RGB cables are available: A VGA (D-Sub15) cable, a 5-BNC cable, and a special Barco CRT projector port 3 cable. Do not use the component 3 RCA (phono) style connector as it will not work.
I have a scaler or doubler with DVI/HDMI inputs and an RGB or Component output connected to my display device. I don’t need an HDfury3 right?
Not true. You still need the HDfury3 if you want to use HDMI sources such as Blu-Ray or DVD players as they use HDCP (high definition copy protection). The scaler is not allowed to output an analog RGB or Component signal. The scaler will simply TURN OFF its analog output or limit it to 480i resolution. Only the digital DVI/HDMI outputs will remain on. To solve this, connect the HDfury3 to the DVI/HDMI output of your scaler, and then connect the HDfury3 to your display device using the analog RGB or Component input. Simple!
I have a scaler or doubler with DVI/HDMI inputs and a DVI/HDMI output connected to my display device’s DVI/HDMI input. I don’t need an HDfury3 right?
Maybe. You still need the HDfury3 if you want to use HDMI sources such as Blu-Ray or DVD players that have HDCP-protected content *and* your display device only has a DVI input. The scaler, must pass the HDCP-protected content all the way to your display device. The display device must decrypt the content. If your display device only has a DVI input and it does not support HDCP, it will not be sent a signal. To solve this, connect the HDfury3 to the DVI/HDMI output of your scaler, and then connect the HDfury3 to your display device using the analog RGB or Component input. Simple!
I want to connect a longer cable to the output of the HDfury3. Can I do that?
Yes. The HDfury3 supports analog output cables up to 40-50 feet in length. The HDfury1 did not allow for longer output cables while the HDfury2 support cables up to 25-35 feet in length.
Does the HDfury3 support 24fps found in next generation Blu-Ray and HD DVD players?
Yes! While the HDfury1 does not, the HDfury2 and HDfury3 do support 24fps. With cathodic displays such as CRT projectors or CRT based RPTVs or tube TVs, 24fps is too low of a frequency for the display to use. The image will flicker like crazy and will not be watchable. You must turn off 24fps support in the source when using a CRT based display. You can however use 24fps on a plasma or LCD display and it will be displayed nicely using the HDfury3! Note however that most displays that do not have HDMI inputs will not work at 24 Hz as 24 Hz support was generally added to displays after HDMI was invented. To turn off 24 Hz, set your source devices to 50 or 60 Hz output and not 24 frames (Hz) or “Automatic”.
I can only get lower resolutions to work. When I set my source to high resolutions like 1080p I don’t get an image!
(1) Make sure to use the included HDfury3 power supply at all times. It is required at all times.
(2) Many TVs do not support 1080p and must be fed a 1080i or 720p signal instead. Make sure to set your source to 1080i or 720p unless your display’s manual specifically states that it supports 1080p.
(3) Make sure to turn off 24fps (24p) support in the source (see last question).
The picture is blank! I don’t get an image at all from my PS3, Blu-ray player, or other source!
(1) Make sure your display supports the resolution the source is feeding it. If your TV does not support 1080p, set your sources to 1080i or 720p. Some sources will automatically use the highest resolution available to them based on what they see connected, and since they see the HDfury3 which supports 1080p FULL HD, the source will ‘think’ you have a 1080p capable TV and is most likely feeding the HDfury3 a 1080p signal. You need to lower this to 1080i or 720p in the source device.
(2) Make sure that the 24fps output option in the source device is set to OFF or DISABLED and not AUTOMATIC unless your TV specifically supports 24fps. Most do not, especially older TVs that do not have HDMI inputs.
(3) Make sure you’re using the HDfury3 power supply at all times.
I’m still getting a black screen from my PS3 when using the HDfury3. How can I fix this?
The problem is that you likely connected the HDfury3 to the HDMI port while the PS3 was still setup to output by another port (component or composite). The result is no picture over HDMI. The PS3 will output low resolution on every output when you reset the display settings this way: PS3 in stand by mode, hold on power for 5 sec until you heard 3 beeps.
The PS3 restarts and you can than access low resolution through both HDMI and/or other ports and perform the display test to choose your preferred resolution.
On my PS3 I can see the menu, play games and blu-ray discs, but I get a blank screen or an out of range error message when I play a DVD
You need to change a setting in your PS3: In addition to setting up the HDMI resolution on the PS3 as outlined above, you also have to go under the Blu-Ray playback settings and adjust the DVD upscale feature because by default it will also be 1080p. Another hint: When you first connect an HDfury device to the PS3 the PS3 will ask: “A new HDMI device has been detected, do you want to use it?” Answer ‘YES’ ONLY if your TV is 1080p capable. Otherwise answer ‘NO’, and you will be presented with another screen where you will be able to change the resolution settings and set them manually to whatever your TV supports.
My picture is blank when I play back Blu-ray discs but not when I play DVDs. What’s going on?
Blu-ray discs are natively 1080p/24Hz. You likely have your Blu-ray player set to 24Hz or “Automatic” frame rate output so that it is outputting a 24 Hz (fps) signal. Most displays that do not have HDMI inputs do not work at 24 Hz so you need to turn this off. Either set your Blu-ray player to 50 or 60Hz or set ‘Automatic Frame Rate’ to off.
My Sony G90 CRT projector looks funny when I use the HDfury3.
Go into the G90 service menu “Input Setting” with the fury installed and set the “Clamp” to HP or H/C from auto. This should straighten out the picture if it is varying in brightness and getting weird bands of dark as scenes change.
I can’t get past 1080p on my PC while hooked up from my DVI port to the HDFury3 even when using PowerStrip. Why not?
In order to go beyond the 165Mhz pixel clock barrier of 1080p/60 from your PC you will need a DUAL LINK DVI to HDMI cable. That’s the cable that has all the pins filled in on the DVI end and had an HDMI plug on the other.
Will the HDfury3 shift the image to the left or cropped (cut off) in any way like some other converters?
No. Just like the HDfury2, the HDfury3 includes advanced features to ensure that the image stays perfectly centered when component (Y/Pb/Pr) output mode is used. The HDfury3 also adds a new feature to allow for manual centering of the image when RGB output mode is used (the HDfury2 did not have this feature).
Does the HDfury3 automatically center the image?
In component (Y/Pb/Pr) output mode the HDfury3 always automatically centers the image. Nothing else needs to be done. In RGB (VGA) output mode the L/R image shift control on the side of the HDfury3 may be used to manually center the image after turning DIP switch number 5 to ON.
The picture is not centered when I use the HDfury3 in RGB (VGA) output mode. How do I fix it?
Open the DIP switch cover and turn DIP number 5 to ON. Then use the L/R momentary contact switch on the side of the HDfury3 to shift the image left or right until it is centered. This only needs to be done when you use a new resolution for the first time. The HDfury3 will then remember the setting for that resolution for the next time you use it. The “theoretical” correct RGB center values are already programmed into the HDfury3 core so in many cases no shifting will be required, but testing has shown that some TVs do need a slight adjustment. The HDfury3 is the first HDfury to give you that flexibility.
The L/R image shift doesn’t work!
Make sure the HDfury3 is set to RGB output mode (set DIP switch 1 to ON) and that the L/R image shift feature is enabled (set DIP switch 5 to ON). See the next question for more information.
Can I disable the L/R image shift feature?
Yes. While the L/R image shifting in RGB mode is enabled by default, some people may choose to disable this feature and do their image shifting in the display or in a video processor instead. To turn off the L/R image shifting feature lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and set DIP switch 5 to OFF.
I used the L/R image shifting push button and now I don’t have an image anymore!
You have shifted the image too far resulting in a loss of sync on the display. Hold the shift push button in either direction for approximately 15 seconds and the image will reset to the default center value. Then re-adjust slowly/carefully.
RGB image sync:
My display has composite (combined) sync with only 4 BNC connectors, not 5. (Examples: Barco 7xx/Cine7 or Ampro CRT projectors). What cable do I order? How do I hook it up?
Order the GREEN (5-BNC breakout cable) and combine the H/V sync lines using a $2 BNC T-connector. You could also use an Extron 109 or 202 box to combine the two sync lines.
The image rolls, is unstable, or doesn’t always lock on. What do I do?
Some displays such as early Electrohome ECP and Barco CRT projectors have fussy sync circuitry. You need to combine the H/V sync lines using a $2 BNC T-connector. You could also use an Extron 109 or 202 box to combine the two sync lines.
My display requires the RGB signal to always include negative or positive sync to work. How do I set this?
The HDfury3 allows you to force the output sync to either positive or negative, or invert it. Previous HDfury models did not alter the sync signal in any way requiring extra hardware if your display has special sync requirements.. To set sync lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and set DIP switches 2 and 3 as follows:
- Always invert sync: Set DIP switch 2 to OFF, DIP switch 3 to OFF
- Always positive (high) sync: Set DIP switch 2 to ON, DIP switch 3 to ON
- Always negative (low) sync: Set DIP switch 2 to OFF, DIP switch 3 to ON
How do the two sync DIP switches work?
For those people who want all the details, the two sync DIP switches control RGB image sync as follows:
DIP switch 2: ON=Sync Passed, OFF=Sync inverted (operates after DIP3 selection, so it is possible to invert a forced sync too)
DIP switch 3: ON=Force sync positive (high), OFF=Sync not forced, simply passed.
Colour depth upscaling:
Can I turn the colour depth upscaling feature off?
Yes. Like the HDfury2, the HDfury3 expands the regular 16-235 image range to 0-255 for greater contrast ratio. Some people may want to turn off this feature. To turn colour depth upscaling off, lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and set DIP switch 4 to OFF.
Limiting the HDfury3 output resolution, EDID:
Do I need to limit the maximum output resolution that my HDfury3 supports to 1080i instead of 1080p?
Usually not. If your display supports 1080i but not 1080p simply set your source device to the maximum resolution that your display supports. In other words, if your display supports 1080i but not 1080p, in your source set up menus choose 1080i or uncheck 1080p from the list of supported resolutions.
So why would I want to limit the HDfury3 resolution to 1080i instead of 1080p?
(1) Some source devices (such some Samsung Blu-ray players) auto-detect the maximum resolution that the display can support every time the player is turned on and reset their resolution to that maximum. The source “sees” the 1080p capable HDfury3 and therefore sets its resolution to 1080p, requiring you to manually change the resolution every time you want to use that source if your TV doesn’t support 1080p. Very annoying!
(2) Some displays may run hot or even malfunction if feed a resolution that is too high such as 1080p. If you know your display doesn’t like 1080p, turning it off in the HDfury3 adds some piece of mind and assurance that you’ll never accidentically feed it too high a resolution.
How do I limit the HDfury3 to only allow 1080i?
You can limit one or both of the HDMI inputs on the HDfury3 to only allow 1080i. Lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3. To turn off 1080p and 24Hz (24p) support for input 1, set DIP switch 7 to OFF. To turn off 1080p and 24Hz (24p) support for input 0, set DIP switch 8 to OFF.
How do I re-enable 1080p support in the HDfury3?
Lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3. To turn on 1080p and 24Hz (24p) support for input 1, set DIP switch 7 to ON. To turn on 1080p and 24Hz (24p) support for input 0, set DIP switch 8 to ON.
How many EDID banks does the HDfury3 have?
4 EDID banks (2 per input). They are user programmable. By default EDID 0 supports 1080p FULLHD and 24p refresh rate, and EDID 1 supports up to 1080i with 24p refresh rate disabled.
How do I tell the HDfury3 which EDID bank to use?
Lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and set DIP switches 7 and 8 as follows:
- To use EDID 0 (1080p, 24p refresh): Set DIP 7 and 8 to ON.
- To use EDID 1 (1080i max, no 24p refresh): Set DIP 7 and 8 to OFF.
Powering the HDfury3:
Do I need to use the HDfury3 power supply
Yes. Due to the advanced features, the HDfury3 draws more power than previous HDfury models. The HDfury3 power supply must be used at all times. All of the HDfury HDfury3 kits come with a power supply.
Is the HDfury3 power supply the same as that used by the HDfury1, HDfury2, and GammaX?
No. The power supply for the HDfury1, HDfury2, and GammaX kits are 0.5A max current. The HDfury3 power supply can supply up to 1.0A. Do not use an HDfury1, HDfury2, or GammaX power supply with the HDfury3.
What sort of power supply does the HDfury3 use?
If you want to source your own, the power supply must adhere to these requirements:
- Provide REGULATED (+/- 5%) 5VDC power with 1.0A min DC current
- Deliver the power through a small 0.65mm diameter center pin / 2.6mm outer diameter DC plug (like the one often used in cellular phone AC adaptor)
- Provide the correct polarity with ‘plus’ on the OUTER part of the plug and ‘minus’ (ground) on the small center pin of the DC jack.
Trying to use an AC/DC adaptor that doesn’t adhere to these three requirements may destroy the HDFury3. Do not use the power supply from the HDfury1, HDfury2, or GammaX with the HDfury3.
The blue LED power light on the HDfury3 is too bright in my light controlled Home Theater! Can I turn it off?
The easiest way to turn off the blue LED power light on the HDfury3 is to simply place a piece of tape over it. Quick and simple. However, if you would like to deactivate it here’s how: Lift the little panel found on the back of the HDfury3 and turn DIP switch 6 to OFF. To re-enable the blue LED power light, turn DIP switch 6 to ON.